When your electric hob, a kitchen cooking surface powered by electricity, often found as a ceramic or induction cooktop. Also known as induction hob or electric cooktop, it suddenly stops working and won’t heat up, the first thing many people try is pressing the reset button. But what does that actually do? And why does it even need resetting? Most electric hobs don’t have a simple ‘off/on’ switch like a toaster—they’re controlled by complex electronics, thermal cut-outs, and safety circuits that shut down if something goes wrong. A reset isn’t a fix—it’s a temporary reset of a protection system that’s trying to keep you safe.
Behind the scenes, your electric hob, a kitchen cooking surface powered by electricity, often found as a ceramic or induction cooktop. Also known as induction hob or electric cooktop, it relies on a control board, the main electronic brain that manages power distribution, temperature, and safety features. If the board detects overheating, a short circuit, or a faulty element, it cuts power and locks the hob until you reset it. But if the problem keeps coming back, it’s not the reset button that’s broken—it’s the underlying component. Common causes include a damaged heating element, a failing thermostat, or moisture inside the control panel. These aren’t fixes you can solve with a quick press. Repeated resets mean the system is in a loop, and ignoring it risks deeper damage or even a fire hazard.
Some users think a reset will fix a broken element or a cracked ceramic surface. It won’t. If one zone doesn’t heat up at all, or the display shows error codes like E1 or F3, the issue is hardware, not software. You might see a reset button near the control panel or inside the hob’s housing (often behind a removable panel), but opening it without disconnecting power is dangerous. Even if you’re comfortable with DIY, you need to know what you’re testing. A multimeter can check if an element has continuity, but if you’re not sure, calling a pro saves time, money, and risk. The same goes for induction hobs—they’re sensitive to magnetic interference and can shut down if they detect incompatible cookware, but that’s not a reset issue—it’s a compatibility one.
There’s a big difference between a hob that needs a reset once after a power surge and one that resets every time you turn it on. The first is a fluke. The second is a warning. If your hob keeps cutting out after five minutes of use, it’s overheating. If it only works on low settings, the control board is failing. If the display flickers or shows random symbols, the electronics are degraded. These aren’t fixes you’ll find in a YouTube video—they’re signs your hob is nearing the end of its life. And while replacing a single element might cost £50, replacing the whole control board can run £150–£300. At that point, it’s worth asking: is it cheaper to fix—or to replace?
What you’ll find below are real-world fixes and failures from people who’ve been there. From how to safely check your hob’s power supply to why some reset buttons don’t even exist on newer models, these posts cut through the noise. You’ll learn what actually breaks, how to spot it early, and when it’s smarter to walk away. No fluff. No guesswork. Just what works—and what doesn’t.
Learn how to reset an electric hob quickly and safely when it stops working. Step-by-step guide for common models, error codes, and when to call a pro.
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