Is an Electric Stove Repairable? Costs, Fixes, and When to Replace (NZ 2025)
Short answer: yes-most electric stoves are repairable, and many fixes are quick and cheaper than replacing the whole cooker. The real question is which part failed, how safe it is to check, and whether the numbers stack up in New Zealand right now.
Electric stove is a household cooking appliance that converts 230-240 V AC electricity into heat via resistive heating elements or induction coils. Typical power draw is 6-12 kW. Key components include cooktop elements or an induction module, an oven bake/broil element, thermostats or sensors, control switches or a control board, and safety gear tied to a dedicated circuit and breaker.
TL;DR
- Most faults-elements, switches, thermostats, wiring terminals-are repairable and often done same-day.
- Common NZ costs: call-out $120-$180, labour $90-$140/hr, elements $60-$150, oven thermostats $180-$350, control boards $250-$600, induction modules $400-$900.
- Repair if parts are available and the total is under 40-50% of the price of a comparable new unit; replace if the ceramic glass is shattered with old parts NLA, or repeated control board failures have you chasing gremlins.
- DIY is limited-mains-voltage work in NZ must follow AS/NZS 3000 and usually needs a licensed electrician or appliance tech.
- Coil and ceramic radiant stoves are the easiest to fix; induction is repairable but parts-limited and costlier.
What “repairable” really means on an electric stove
Electric ranges are modular. Elements, thermostats, and switches are consumables. A control board can fail after a surge. All of these can be swapped. The catch is access, safety, and parts availability for your brand and model.
Heating element is a resistive coil or ribbon that converts electrical energy into heat. Attributes: typical resistance 20-80 Ω (hob), 15-30 Ω (oven bake), lifespan 5-12 years depending on use.
Thermostat is a temperature control device-mechanical or electronic-that regulates oven temperature. Attributes: accuracy ±10-15 °C on older units, can drift with age; replacement restores temp control.
Control board is a printed circuit board (PCB) that manages inputs (knobs, touch) and outputs (relays/triacs to elements). Attributes: vulnerable to power surges and heat; replacement cost often $250-$600 in NZ.
When people ask if a stove is “repairable,” they often mean: can I fix it without replacing the whole appliance, and is it worth it? For most faults, yes. For cracked glass on a 12-year-old ceramic top with a discontinued part, maybe not. For a dead induction power module on a 2-year-old premium range still under CGA rights? Absolutely repair.
Quick decision guide: repair, replace, or call a pro?
- Safety first: if you smell burning insulation, see arcing, or the breaker/RCD trips repeatedly, switch off at the wall isolator or main and stop using.
- Model age: under 8 years and a mainstream brand? Usually repair. Over 12 years with multiple issues? Run the numbers carefully.
- Part availability: a quick parts search for your model number will reveal if elements and boards are stocked. If parts are NLA (no longer available), replacement may be smarter.
- Cost ratio: if the repair quote is under 40-50% of a similar new unit, repair wins most of the time.
- Use profile: if you cook daily, a durable fix (new thermostat + element) beats a cheap workaround.
Common symptoms and what they usually mean
- One hob burns out: likely a failed element or an infinite switch; both repairable.
- Oven won’t heat: check bake element continuity; if intact, suspect thermostat or control relay.
- Uneven oven temperature: drifting thermostat or faulty temperature sensor (on electronic models); a recalibration or replacement sorts it.
- Touch controls dead: control board or power supply issue; also check house supply after an outage or surge.
- Trips RCD/breaker: earth leakage from a cracked element sheath, moisture ingress, or wiring damage-stop using and get a pro.
- Glass top cracked: replacement glass is possible on many ceramic models; if part cost is high and model is old, consider replacement.
What you can safely check (NZ context) vs what needs a pro
New Zealand uses 230-240 V mains. That’s lethal. Live testing and hardwired connections fall under electrical regulations.
AS/NZS 3000 is the Wiring Rules standard in New Zealand and Australia that sets requirements for electrical installations, including fixed appliances like stoves.
RCD (residual current device) is a safety device that trips when it detects earth leakage. It protects against shock and some appliance faults.
Circuit breaker is an overcurrent protective device sized to the stove’s circuit (commonly 32 A for a freestanding cooker). Frequent tripping signals a fault or overload.
- Safe DIY checks (power off at isolator): visual inspection for burnt terminals, loose knobs, obvious element breaks; model number photos; check if the wall isolator switch is on.
- Must-do-by-pro: live voltage tests, element continuity checks without proper isolation, replacing hardwired components, control board swaps, re-terminating supply tails.
In practice, most Auckland households call an appliance tech for diagnosis because it’s faster and safer than buying tools and learning on the job.
Repairability by cooktop type
Ceramic glass cooktop uses radiant elements beneath a glass-ceramic surface. Pros: simple elements and switches; Cons: glass can crack. Parts: elements $80-$180, glass top $300-$700 depending on model.
Induction cooktop uses electromagnetic fields to heat ferromagnetic cookware directly. Pros: efficient and fast; Cons: electronics-heavy, parts can be pricier and brand-specific. Modules $400-$900; fans and sensors $40-$120.
Coil/radiant electric stoves are simplest: elements and infinite switches are modular and cheap. Ceramic radiant adds the risk of glass breakage. Induction adds power modules and touch-control boards. All are repairable, just with different cost profiles.
| Scenario | Repair Likely | Replace Likely | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single hob/oven element failed | Yes | No | Elements are consumables; quick fix. |
| Control board dead after surge | Yes (if part stocked) | Maybe (if NLA or very costly) | Check price vs 40-50% of new. |
| Cracked ceramic glass | Sometimes | Sometimes | Depends on glass cost and model age. |
| Repeated tripping (earth leakage) | Yes | No | Usually an element or wiring fault. |
| Induction module failure, 12+ years old | Maybe | Often | Parts availability is the decider. |
Typical NZ costs and timelines
- Call-out/diagnosis: $120-$180 in Auckland; same-day often available.
- Labour: $90-$140/hr; most repairs 30-90 minutes if parts are on-hand.
- Hob element: $60-$150 part + 30-60 minutes.
- Oven bake/broil element: $70-$180 part + 30-60 minutes.
- Infinite switch/energy regulator: $80-$160 part + 45-75 minutes.
- Oven thermostat or temp sensor: $180-$350 part + 45-90 minutes.
- Control board: $250-$600 part + 45-90 minutes; add if touch glass needs swapping.
- Induction power module: $400-$900 part + 60-120 minutes; firmware pairing may be needed.
- Replacement cooker (mid-range): $900-$2,000; induction $1,800-$4,000.
Supply chain in 2025 is better than 2022-23, but niche models still hit delays. Mainstream brands-think Fisher & Paykel, Westinghouse, Bosch-usually have elements and sensors in stock locally.
Fisher & Paykel is a New Zealand appliance brand known for widespread service coverage and parts availability across cookers and ovens.
Component-by-component: how fixable is it?
- Hob elements (coil or radiant): very fixable. Failure mode: open circuit or hot spot. Swap-in part with matching wattage and connectors.
- Oven elements: very fixable. Look for blisters or cracks; continuity test confirms.
- Infinite switches/energy regulators: fixable. Symptom: stuck on high or no heat. Replacement restores control.
- Thermostats/meat probes/sensors: fixable. Symptom: temperature drift or error codes. Calibrate or replace.
- Control boards/keypads: fixable if parts exist. Symptom: dead display, unresponsive touch, relay chatter. Sometimes repairable at board level, but swapping the module is common and faster.
- Wiring looms/terminals: fixable. Heat cycles can loosen screws; re-terminate and replace heat-damaged wire.
- Ceramic glass: replaceable but price-sensitive. Check if the glass comes as a bare top or as a full assembly with elements.
- Induction module/fan/NTC sensors: fixable but specialised. Diagnose with service menus and fault codes.
DIY vs pro: an honest, safe split
There’s no hero badge for getting zapped. If you’re not trained and you don’t have an isolation transformer, insulated tools, and correct lockout, stick to the safe side. Visual checks? Fine. Reset at the isolator? Fine. Anything beyond that on a hardwired stove, get a tech or electrician who understands appliances.
Electrical worker licensing in NZ is regulated by the Electrical Workers Registration Board (EWRB). Work on fixed wiring and prescribed electrical work must be carried out by licensed people.
If your unit is plug-in (some compact benchtop ovens are), you can replace like-for-like parts with care, but live testing is still risky. For built-in ovens and freestanding cookers on a 32 A circuit, use a pro.
Symptoms-to-parts cheat sheet
| Symptom | Likely Part | DIY-Friendly? | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single hob dead | Hob element or infinite switch | No (hardwired) | Quick win for a tech. |
| Oven weak heat | Bake element or thermostat | No | Element can read fine cold-load test is best. |
| Oven too hot | Thermostat calibration/sensor | No | Recalibrate or replace sensor. |
| Random shutoffs | Thermal cutoff, cooling fan, control relay | No | Thermal management fault. |
| Trips RCD | Element leakage or wiring | No | Stop using until inspected. |
| No display, touch dead | Control board or low-voltage PSU | No | Power surge suspects-consider surge protection. |
| Glass cracked | Cooktop glass | No | Replace glass; test elements afterward. |
When replacement beats repair
- Parts NLA: if the control board or glass top is discontinued and no refurb exists, replace.
- Stacked faults: two or three major parts in one visit can cross the 50% threshold.
- Efficiency jump: swapping to induction for speed and lower heat spill may be a lifestyle upgrade worth the spend.
- Safety scars: visible heat damage to wiring, melted terminal blocks, and unknown service history on a 15-year-old unit-don’t gamble.
How to get a solid repair outcome
- Grab the model/serial: photo the rating plate (inside the oven door frame or rear panel). This avoids wrong parts.
- Describe symptoms cleanly: which hob, what mode, any error codes, when it started, and what else was running (kettle, heater).
- Ask for parts-first: if the tech knows the common failure for your model, they can bring the likely parts to do it one trip.
- Consider surge protection: a simple inline protector or a qualified install of whole-home protection reduces board failures.
- Book during regular hours: after-hours callouts cost more; if it’s safe to wait, you’ll save.
Related concepts you’ll hear during a repair
Techs may mention things like “open-circuit element,” “triac on the board,” or “NTC sensor drift.” Here’s the plain-English version.
- Open circuit: the element wire has broken internally, so current can’t flow-replace the element.
- Triac/relay: the electronic switch on the board that powers elements on and off. When it fails, the element can stick on or never heat.
- NTC sensor: a temperature sensor whose resistance changes with heat; used for precise oven control and in induction cooling systems.
- Load diversity: not all elements at full blast at once; stoves are designed around this, but a stuck control can overload.
Proof it’s worth fixing: real-world examples
- Freestanding ceramic stove, 7 years old: front-left hob dead. New 1.8 kW element + regulator, 55 minutes, parts $230, labour $120-back cooking the same day.
- Built-in oven, 10 years: 40 °C over temp. Thermostat drift. New thermostat $260 + 60 minutes labour fixed it; cheaper than a new oven and baking is on point again.
- Induction cooktop, 4 years: error after storm. Diagnosis: failed power module. Module $520, labour $160. Added surge protection at the switchboard later.
Preventive care so you don’t see us again soon
- Keep vents clear: blocked cooling paths cook control boards.
- Dry spills fast: sugar and acidic spills etch glass and creep into switches.
- Use flat, correct cookware sizes: hot spots shorten element life.
- Avoid dragging pots on ceramic glass: micro-scratches become stress points.
- Don’t slam oven doors: it fatigues hinges and rattles elements.
- Consider a dedicated surge device for the stove circuit if you’ve had board failures.
Bottom line: electric stove repair is usually the smart first move. Run the quick checks above, get a clean diagnosis, and weigh the quote against a like-for-like new unit. Most households save money with a targeted fix.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is an electric stove usually worth repairing?
Yes. If parts are available and the repair quote is under about 40-50% of a comparable new unit, repair makes financial sense. Elements, switches, thermostats, and many control boards are designed to be replaced. In New Zealand, most single-fault repairs fall between $200 and $500 total, which is well below the price of a new cooker.
Can I replace an oven element myself?
If the oven is hardwired (most are), New Zealand rules and safety best practice say use a licensed professional. You can do safe prep-turn power off at the isolator, note the model number, and describe the symptoms-but element swaps involve live circuits and correct termination. A tech will swap it fast and test it properly.
Why does my stove trip the RCD or breaker?
Commonly because of earth leakage from a failing element (moisture or a cracked sheath) or a wiring fault at a terminal block. Less often, a control board fault or a shorted fan can do it. Stop using the appliance and get it inspected-repeated tripping is a safety red flag, not a nuisance to ignore.
How long should an electric stove last?
A well-made electric stove often serves 10-15 years, sometimes longer with light use. Elements and thermostats are consumables and may be replaced a few times over that period. Induction models rely on electronics that can fail earlier from heat or surges, but replacing a module can extend life well past a decade.
Is induction harder or more expensive to repair than ceramic or coil?
Usually yes. Induction has power modules, sensors, and touch controllers that are brand-specific and costlier. A failed induction module might be $400-$900 plus labour. By contrast, a coil or radiant element is simple and cheaper. That said, induction is still repairable, and parts for mainstream brands are available in NZ.
What brand considerations matter for repairability in NZ?
Brands with strong local parts distribution-Fisher & Paykel, Westinghouse, Bosch-are easier and faster to fix because elements, thermostats, and boards are stocked. Niche or older imported models may face parts delays or discontinued components. Before buying, check that common parts are listed for your exact model number.
What about Consumer Guarantees Act rights if it’s fairly new?
If the stove is relatively new and fails under normal use, the CGA may entitle you to repair, replacement, or refund depending on the fault and age. Keep your proof of purchase and contact the retailer or manufacturer first. A formal diagnosis from an independent tech can help.
How can I avoid future control board failures?
Keep cooling vents clear so the board doesn’t overheat, fix any fan faults early, and consider surge protection-either a quality plug-in protector if applicable or whole-home surge protection installed by an electrician. After storms or outages, wait a minute before restarting the stove to let voltages stabilise.
Does a cracked glass cooktop mean automatic replacement?
Not automatic. Many ceramic tops can be replaced, and the cost can be reasonable on mid-range models. But if the glass is pricey, the unit is older, and other parts are tired, a new cooker may make more sense. Don’t use a cracked top-it can worsen and expose live parts.
How fast can a repair be done in Auckland?
Same-day or next-day for common faults if the part is carried on the van: hob and oven elements, many switches, some thermostats. Control boards and induction modules may take 2-5 business days if they need ordering. Always provide the exact model number to speed things up.
Write a comment