Washing Machine Failure: What to Do When It Stops Working

If your washing machine stops doing its job, you’re probably wondering if you can fix it yourself or need a professional. The good news is most failures are caused by simple issues that you can tackle in under an hour. Below are the most common problems, why they happen, and step‑by‑step actions you can take right now.

1. Machine Won’t Spin or Agitate

The first thing to check is the load. Over‑loading or an unbalanced load can lock the drum and stop the spin cycle. Open the door, redistribute the clothes, and try a short spin. If the problem persists, look at the lid switch (front‑loaders) or door lock (top‑loaders). A broken switch will prevent the motor from turning. You can test it with a multimeter; continuity means it’s fine. If the switch is faulty, replace it – it’s a cheap part and easy to swap.

Another common culprit is the drive belt. Over time the belt can wear, stretch, or snap, especially in older models. Pull out the back panel, locate the rubber belt around the motor and drum, and inspect its condition. A frayed belt should be replaced immediately. When you fit a new belt, make sure it’s tight enough to grip but not so tight that it strains the motor.

2. Water Won’t Drain

A blockage in the drain pump or hose is usually to blame when water sits at the bottom of the drum. Start by unplugging the machine, then remove the small access panel behind the pump. Look for foreign objects – coins, lint, or small clothing items – and clean them out. Next, detach the drain hose and check for clogs. A flexible brush or a long piece of wire works well for clearing the pipe.

If the pump itself is humming but not moving water, the impeller might be jammed. You can manually spin the impeller with a screwdriver; it should turn freely. A stuck impeller usually means the pump needs replacement. Most pumps cost under £30 and come with simple instructions.

3. Leaking or Flooding

Leaks often start at the hoses. Inspect the inlet hose (bringing water in) and the discharge hose (sending water out) for cracks or loose connections. Tighten any clamps and replace any hose that looks worn. Inside the machine, the door seal can develop cracks or become brittle. Run a finger around the seal; if you feel gaps, the seal needs a new rubber gasket.

Another source of leaks is the pump seal. If water drips from the bottom of the machine, the pump’s rubber seal may have deteriorated. Replacing the pump usually includes a new seal, fixing the leak in one go.

4. Excessive Vibration and Noise

Vibration often means the machine isn’t level. Adjust the rubber feet until the unit sits flat on the floor – use a spirit level for accuracy. If the floor is uneven, placing a thin piece of plywood under the washer can help. Loud banging noises can also be from foreign objects caught in the drum or between the inner and outer tubs. Check the drum for items like hair ties or small toys and remove them.

For front‑loaders, the shock absorbers or suspension springs might be worn out. These parts cushion the drum’s movement. If you notice the drum banging against the outer tub, swapping out the shocks will restore quiet operation.

5. When to Call a Pro

Some issues are best left to a trained technician. Electrical failures, such as a burnt motor, control board problems, or recurring error codes, can be dangerous to diagnose without proper tools. If you’ve tried the above steps and the machine still misbehaves, schedule a repair visit. A local expert can quickly order the right part and get your washer back in shape.

Remember, regular maintenance can prevent many of these problems. Clean the filter monthly, wipe the door gasket after each use, and run a hot wash cycle without clothes every few weeks to keep mold at bay. A little care now saves you time, money, and a soggy laundry room later.

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